Wise, beautiful and at peace with themselves, like Monica Bellucci, born in 1964, a timeless icon of charm, but also like the over seventy-year-old Helen Mirren and the over eighty-year-old Jane Fonda, long-time faces of the anti-aging lines of cosmetics. Today, the over 50s no longer think they can turn the clock back thirty years and they don’t aspire to look like teenagers: the era of ironed faces and doll cheeks is over. Women who have entered the “silver age” have as their reference model actresses and models of their age, shining and full of charm. In spite, or perhaps even thanks to, a few wrinkles.
The right ingredients to improve tone and firmness
Cosmetic companies have adapted to the new trend with an increasingly widespread offer of products dedicated to the over 50s. «They are pro-aging formulas, designed to gently maintain an optimal level of hydration, to soften skin furrows and obtain a luminous complexion in mature skin. All results that create the ideal setting for enhancing history, the experience that is reflected in the faces of those who have lived a lot and are rightly proud of their past», observes the cosmetologist and dermatologist Leonardo Celleno, president of Aideco (aideco.org).
A philosophy, that of proaging, which makes use of new generation biotechnological active ingredients which, although they do not perform miracles, make you forget a few wrinkles. Celleno adds: «After the menopause, due to the drastic reduction in estrogen, the fibroblasts no longer ensure the role of “frame” of the tissues, the entire skin architecture becomes impoverished and the skin loses density and compactness: to balance this process formulas are useful which, in addition to a base of antioxidants such as vitamins A, C, E and Dcontain redensifying, recompacting and elasticising active ingredients, among which the list of ingredients includes calcium, essential for skin metabolism, phytoestrogens, such as those derived from soy (preferably fermented because it is more active) and oligopeptides which support the synthesis of collagen and elastin and the organization of connective tissue fibres».
Also important are the ingredients with a filler effect such as the Proxylaneobtained from xylose derived from beech wood, which tones, in addition tohyaluronic acid at different molecular weights. Especially after the age of 60, the skin gradually becomes even drier because it loses part of the endogenous fats which, in addition to maintaining an optimal level of hydration, form a sort of deep “beehive” which gives support together with the elastic and reticular fibres.
«To restore hydration and nutrition to the skin and provide it with good anti-gravity support, in the INCI of your cream you can look for, among others, phytosphingosine, a lipid molecule which is found naturally in the stratum corneum and which is needed for the formation of ceramides 3 and 6and then the acids Omega 3 and 6 essential fatswhich also act as anti-inflammatories and anti-ageing, and vegetable butters and oils, such as those of avocado and maracuja for example», advises the dermatologist.
Variety helps: you need a diversified routine
But choosing the right treatments is not enough. «The cosmetic routine must be varied to keep the skin metabolism “lively” and active», says Celleno. «The treatments must be diversified by area of the face and over the course of the week. A suggestion can be the use of three masks during the seven daysalternating moisturizing, detoxifying and anti-wrinkle formulas, to be combined with specific day creams for mature skins».
A serum to be applied in the morning is essential, for example with a lifting effect thanks to silk proteins and mucilages or with synthetic substances derived from acrylates (esters and copolymers from acrylic acid).
«It is an important expedient especially for the mandibular area, which after 55/60 years, due to the alterations undergone by the elastic fibers and the collagen bundles, loses definition and slips downwards», recalls Celleno. With advanced aging, the skin also tends to stain more conspicuously and to take on a dull and yellowish appearance: the most appropriate moment to restore light and greater uniformity to the complexion is in the evening, with active ingredients such as hexapeptides with a lightening action o with formulas based on new ingredients, such as pidobenzone or two molecules in combination, N-acetylglucosamine (NAG, a glucosamine derivative) at 2% and nicotinamide (NA, vitamin B3) at 4% which inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme that promotes melanin. “Alternatively, always valid a serum with vitamin Cwhich lightens, illuminates and stimulates collagen», suggests the expert.
An extra boost of energy with treatments in the institute
However, this at-home cosmetic routine is not always enough, and a boost of energy comes from the professionals of the beauty institutes. «Mature, thickened and marked skin should be trained with one cosmetic skin re-education strategya», recommends Annamaria Previati, beautician and naturopath of Biostudio Natura in Milan (biostudionatura.com). «It is a real process of reawakening the regeneration processes in several sessions which begins, for example, with enzymatic peelings to arrive at deeper exfoliations that make use of acid-based preparations, for example glycolic, and retinol, followed by application of masks and serums with protective and restorative ingredients, such as ceramides, biomimetic peptides and tea derivatives». A shock treatment to be repeated at least three times a year to reduce wrinkles and furrows, reawaken luminosity, preserve elasticity and turgidity.
Make-up: less is more
If you want to look younger, go for nude make-up. «Choose a very fluid foundation in the color closest to yours, to be blended with your fingertips and avoid oily or powdery formulas: both creep into wrinkles, highlighting them», suggests make-up designer Paolo Guatelli (paologuatellimakeup.com) . Even the choice of blush should follow the color of the complexion: in shades of orange if the complexion is “warm”, exploring the nuances of pink if it is naturally fair. To recreate the freshness of young skin, too for the eyes, the ideal choice is the range of nude tonesfrom beige to hazelnut, from caramel to honey, from rope to pink.
“Same neutral preference also for lipstick, to be replaced if necessary with a dark red in the evening. Beware of glosses, however, because the traditional ones risk migrating and showing off the so-called bar-code, i.e. the typical fine lines around the edges. You prefer the latest generation ones that solve the problem, combining brilliance with excellent hold», concludes Paolo Guatelli.