Facial skin aging, new treatments and no-age cosmetics


from Beatrice Serra

Eternal youth has an irresistible charm, and has infected even the hundred-billionaires. Jeff Bezos, founder and owner of Amazon, the second richest man in the world, was not enough to fly into space. In addition to defying gravity, he now also wants him extend human life of at least 50 years, investing another 3 billion dollars in his recent creation, the start-up Altos which does research on cellular reprogramminga method that could reverse aging.

While we are waiting for some exploits of infinite vitality applied on a universal scale, on the face the general expectations are more realistic, given that 60% of patients who attend aesthetic medicine studies look for “skin quality” of the skin (source: Agorà). And with this in mind, the biostimulation takes the lion’s share, especially now that it has renewed itself with the arrival of a vegan fillerbased on neosilk.

“It derives from silk, and is extracted from a filament produced by a particular variety of Japanese silkworms, which contains a special, recombinant collagen”, explains Marco Benedetti, founder, with Liliana Abrami, of 303 Pharma, a company that distributes exclusively for Italy the brand new filler.

«Compared to traditional fillers, derived from bovine, porcine or even equine, it contains a monoelic amino acid chain (r-polypetide alpha1 chain), which activates the production of autologous collagen earlier and to a greater extent. Furthermore, it has a human biocompatibility equal to 99% ».

Injected associated with hyaluronic acid for a strengthened effect, it acts immediately, with wrinkles that relax and the skin becomes more compact, specifies the professor Sergio Noviello, doctor and cosmetic surgeon in Milan. «The treatment is performed on the entire face, excluding the eye contour, but also on the hands, neck and décolleté. And it is a youth-cure for those empty faces that do not want highly volumetric corrections ”, explains the expert.
All this, however, if they are done at least two-three sessions (starting from € 400 each) 3-4 weeks apart; for maintenance, one every four months is enough.

There is also the hi-tech combo

In short, the stimulation of collagen is the pivot of the latter strategies skin longevity (healthy and vital skin, regardless of age), and in this wake it also fits Jóli 360a new medical-aesthetic device of Israeli creation and produced by Esi Novel.

“Combined with up-to-date cosmetic products, it offers a rejuvenating synergy of action,” he explains Dvora Ancona, aesthetic doctor who directs the Center for Aesthetic Regenerative Medicine and Surgery in Milan. «The device, in fact, combines, in alternating phases, radiofrequency, electroporation and laser, so that the skin benefits simultaneously from different treatments. One to increase collagen production without destroying the epidermis; the other to improve its thickness and consistency for the benefit of brightness and tone, the other again, thanks to the application of an electrical impulse, to better penetrate the active ingredients used in the treatment. An appointment of half an hour in total, which leaves neither pain nor redness ».
Although to see excellent results it takes at least 6-7 sessions (one a week), at a cost of € 120 each.

There daily skincare, qand the drones of youth

The war against wrinkles and crow’s feet does not stop in medical offices or beauty salons, but also and above all continues in daily skincare. The weapons, indispensable, are the famous ones anti age products, always in pole position in the sales of cosmetics for face care (about 45%, says the 2021 report of Cosmetica Italia) and continuously renewed with active ingredients and highly performing formulations. Currently, then, the cosmetic industry offers them both to over 50s and to women far from menopause.

“With the right timing, their effectiveness actually changes,” he warns Andrea Righetti, pharmacist and naturopath, expert in chronocosmetics. «First-hand anti-aging products play a lot on prevention. In fact, they are essentially created to stimulate cell regeneration, a natural process that begins to lose its beat at the age of thirty. Therefore, starting with these cosmetics at 40, 50 years is too late », he points out.

«The assets that are giving the most satisfaction and still remain at the top are the peptides, with the ability to perfectly mimic the protein activities of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid going, from time to time, to smooth out the wrinkle and firm. Each peptide, in fact, has a specific function, depending on the number of atoms it has “, he explicitly states Gloriana Assaltipharmacist and cosmetologist in Rome.

The absolute novelty, at the moment, however, are the “drones” (reported in the INCI), small capsules that contain peptides inside. They have the strength to convey them to the precise point we want to cure, multiplying their action. They are not the only pro-age emerging ones. The sugars (such as sucrose) are giving them excellent results, very good at binding to the water of the skin and with a valid glow and smoothing effect; ozonite, from the reaction of nitrogen with a fatty acid: releases oxygen and improves the microcirculation of the skin, increasing its brightness and its ability to absorb active ingredients; in the group of vitamins, B3 (niacinamide), an antioxidant which, depending on the concentration, also manages to have a lightening activity on dark spots. In any case, the formulas with the best answer are a mix of a few different ingredients so that they all work to their maximum potential ».

Changes in use, and in effectiveness

There is no two without three, goes the old saying. There is no philosophy versus youth, we add, without taking into account the right rhythms of use of the products.

“There cleansing (morning and evening) it is the first, necessary step ”, details Righetti. «According to a research we did here at the University of Modena, already cleaning the skin well leads to a reduction of micro-wrinkles in 6-8 months, as it makes the epidermis more permeable to the active ingredients contained in the creams. For those under 40, micellar water or cleansing gel is fine; after fifty, milk with moisturizing principles (like hyaluronic acid) or anti-aging (excellent plankton). Then, at 30, three skin care products are enough: in the morning, moisturizer and SPF (or foundation) against photo-aging; in the evening, anti-aging cream. From the age of 50 onwards, you also need the specific serum (or fluid) under the balm, twice a day; in the evening routine, when mixed with vitamin vials it is a powerful booster, to remember. The important thing – and this is true at any age – is never use filler effect products before going to sleep which, due to the presence of silicone particles, do not allow the skin to detoxify itself, slowing down the cell turnover. Never forget the eye contour, valid are the creams with polyphenols and carnitine that counteract bags, dark circles and signs of fatigue. To appreciate their quality, however, it is necessary to spread them with a movement from the inside of the nose towards the auricle. Finally, the extra treatments: yes to exfoliation with enzymatic peeling that frees dead cells and opacity, twice a month under the age of 40, once a week later. Even the masks are an extra of youth: moisturizing (with hyaluronic acid) up to 50 years, anti-aging (like retinol) for those over 50 ».

Arrived this far, more than “anti-aging” we could speak of “no age”.


The toning fluid

Against the loss of tone and volume of the face and for a healthy “wax”: Ultra-lifting pink illuminating fluid of Filorgamix of cellular factors, collagen, hyaluronic acid (44 €, filorga.com).

The nourishing cream

Improves the elasticity of the skin and smoothes the skin, thanks to new peptides with a relaxing action: Korff Lifting 40-76 Rich Face Cream (69 €, korff.it).

The make-up base

To use before foundation or as needed, Age Protect Instant Multi-Corrector Filler Treatment Uriage has anti-aging actives and protects against blue light. (€ 18.22, uriage.it).

24h treatment

The pure gold particles enhance the antioxidant action of lemon caviar extract and pink grapefruit juice in the 24k Vitamin C & Gold Face Cream, morning and evening. L’Erbolario (€ 39.90, erbolario-com.it).

The night peeling

It is put on in the evening, and thanks to the action of pyruvic acid and allantoin, in the morning the skin is as if renewed, with a purer and more uniform texture. Night Peeling Cream Dibi (75 €, dibi.com).

The dermoplastic gel

With its 12 hyaluronic acids of different weights, it fills wrinkles and expression lines on cheekbones and lips. To be used for 14 days. Fillerina Double Filler by Labo Suisse (from 99 €, up labosuisse.com)

The photoprotective fluid

In the morning, never forget to complete your skin care with the ultra-light solar fluid Capital Soleil Uv-Age Spf 50+ from Vichy, enriched with probiotic, peptide and niacinamide fractions. (€ 29.90, vichy.it).

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