from Beatrice Serra
Blond, red, brown hair or hair in the process of turning towards grey: among the trends of this autumn, the choice of dye them with an “invisible color”, a technique that doesn’t change the original tonality but loads it with intensity. Just to bring out the aesthetic character of each woman, the one given by Mother Nature, which is perhaps the best and values us more. It’s the actress Miriam Leone’s winning beauty “trick”: she keeps her auburn hair away from any change; the stylish Zendaya, a thousand looks for a single brunette; by Amanda Seyfried, always a natural blonde. To put us in the wake of an extra natural but scenographic hair-mood is Jenny Mozzi, technical director of the ToniI&Guy Monti salon in Milan.
How is color-non-color obtained?
«Through specific products that do not vary our basic nuance but only accentuate it or, at most, make it one or two tones deeper. The final goal is a harmonious result: the hair doesn’t look dyed but only full of reflections. And even when, after a few weeks, there is regrowth, there is no contrast between roots and lengths. More natural than that!».
Are they specific colors?
«The “invisible color” is achieved with ammonia-free products, first of all. There are different types, and the choice of one or the other depends on the desired result: to make the basic color brighter, chemical cosmetics are used, the so-called “gloss”, transparent that polish the stems also because they close the scales of the hair; to intensify the reflections, they are also added (or used alone) plant-derived pigments. Slightly colored, they enhance the “cold” or “warm” shades of the hair, depending on what we want. Always, however, from a peek-a-boo perspective, as if they were natural gradations».
Does the application technique also change compared to dyeing?
“Yup, times are halved. To be invisible, the color must be deposited very little on the hair, only on the outside. Here are some timings: the glosses, which can be in gel or cream, are applied all over the wet head, with a pose of 10-15 minutes. While the vegetable pigments, which are herbs mixed in hot water, are put on large sections of hair (always damp), and here too it is rinsed after about a quarter of an hour».
Who is this choice best suited to?
«There is no chosen target. Blackberries, browns, blondes, redheads, with a short or long cut, a transparent tint improves the quality of any hair. Everyone will look clearer, fuller, healthier. Therefore, I recommend it to the 20-year-old girl who doesn’t want transformations but whose hair is weakened by the corrosive action of the summer like the over 40-year-old girl who is alien to the colors, but which she sees “faded”. However, it must be added that the imperceptible coloring techniques are also good for those who have always colored their hair: glosses dampen the artificial effect of the dye, if they are used on the lengths. At this point, the actual dye can only be reserved for the roots».
Speaking of age, and for those with gray or white hair?
«The glosses don’t cover them completely, but there they mask well. And they avoid constant tweaks to regrowth. In this case, a slightly colored product is needed (for example, brown for dark hair): left to act for a short time (always 15 minutes) and applied to a wet head, the dye is diluted and the white hair receives that slight dose of coloring which it attenuates its whiteness, blending so well with the rest. Any other usage tips? The important thing is to choose the right gloss for your hair type. The gel color is suitable for those who have smooth, thin, lifeless hair: it creates an immediate plumping effect that gives volume to the head. While for dry, frizzy hair I would necessarily go with the invisible color in cream. It is moisturizing, so it softens them and makes them more silky and iridescent».
How long is the reflective effect maintained?
«A lot depends on the maintenance you do at home. The natural color only sticks to the outside of the shaft, so if the hair is washed with too strong cleansers it will only last 2 to 3 weeks. With a low pH shampoo, on the other hand, it lasts a month and a half. Also pay attention to the post-washing: with a balm, fat, the locks become opaque, and goodbye shine; with a conditioner spray, the hair is kept lighter and full of light».