New make-up trends, color is back in make-up

Cat eyes with an elongated oriental cut, sensual fiery red lips, porcelain skin sublimated by sand, honey or ivory foundation which, reflecting the light, give a luminous and uniform complexion. The new make-up trends emerging from the catwalks and seen on the VIPs at the Venice festival they reveal an autumn warmed up by bright colors, bold shades and intense pigments. Many are crossed by glittering flashes to shine above all in the evening, in the name of a newfound elegance, after years marked by the austerity of the Covid. The desire for sophisticated and intriguing sophisticated lady make-up re-emerges, abandoning the palette of pastels (reserved for daytime hours in the office) to dress intense nuances of greys, fauves, browns and fuchsias.

But how to put the new makeup trends into practice? We asked Luca MannucciOfficial Make Up Artist of Deborah Milano and consultant for color harmony tests.

Focus on the eyes: what are the must-have palettes?

This season will see the return of the play on contrasts, with darker colors applied to the upper lids and lighter ones blended into the browbone, following the escape routes of the eye. Surprisingly, smokey eyes are back, elegant and effective, with different shades of gray (from smoke to ash to anthracite) also applied along the lower eyelid line, to open up the gaze and make it more intense and seductive. It suits both those with dark eyes and those with green eyes. Unlike the past seasons, however, smokey eyes are no longer shaded but made according to the technique of color blocka single block of compact color spread over the entire mobile eyelid and also reproposed along the lower one, like a slightly shaded line towards the outside.
Furthermore, while the classic smokey eyes is strictly gray, the autumn palette also draws on other nuances in the series of browns, burns, taupe and fuchsia which are very popular this year. For the under 30s or for those who want to dare a powerful make-up on the occasion of a special evening, “fluo pop” colors such as lemon yellow, orange, acid green, shocking pink and even fuchsia are all the rage: used with creativity and cheerfulness, they recreate the Pantone effect because they are very bright and, often, enlivened by glitter or sparkles, in the wake of this long summer in which shining was the watchword.

What about the return of eyeliner?

I think it is very feminine, capable of sculpting the look like few others. I’m referring to graphic eyeliners with a very clear 60s-style stroke (Maria Callas, Mina or Audrey Hepburn) that are back in fashion. Used specifically to enlarge the eyes and get noticed, they have a particular design and an intense black vinyl finish, with a very suggestive lacquered effect that lends itself to lengthening the shape of the eyes. But colored eyeliners, used in pendant with eyeshadow, are also trendy, ranging from cobalt blue to plum, from petrol to fuchsia.
On the crest of the wave, an indispensable “must have”: the silver colored pencil, skilfully used along the lower lashline and in the inner corner of the eye to draw lunar light-points. Finally, autumn welcomes the return of kajal, the ultra-black pencil with a soft consistency used to draw the classic deep and magnetic “Indian eye”. By lengthening the line upwards, towards the temples, the coveted “cat eye” is recreated, very cool because it is influenced by the recent success of Korean and Japanese cinema.

Eyelashes and eyebrows: what’s new?

In the wake of a rediscovered sensuality, the mascara back to being the protagonist. The ultrablack versions are very popular, full of “deep pigments”, intense and penetrating pigments for extraordinarily long, thick and intensified eyelashes. Many have a spoon-shaped brush to capture and curve even the thinnest eyelashes. Furthermore, more and more brands are trying to combine color and treatment in a single mascara, adding nutrients to the product that envelop the eyelashes in a protective and moisturizing film, ready to give a surplus of shine: almond, castor or coconut oil, vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, collagen but also diamond powder. Thanks to the latter, the eyelashes become a true point of light for the gaze. What about eyebrows? You can focus on brow mascara, which is experiencing a period of great success. They have a precision applicator that is different from the one found in normal mascara and allow you to draw well-defined, gull-wing eyebrows ready to frame the face with an unmistakable style.

Foundation & Co. What awaits us in autumn?

First of all we need to talk about primers, to be applied as a base before foundation to even out the complexion and reduce discolouration. They ensure long-lasting make-up hold and are perfect for fixing make-up for 12-14 hours. Some have incorporated microparticles that act as “sublimators” of luminosity, giving a radiant appearance (the so-called “selfie face”) and allowing for quick and precise “photo editing”, when the foundation no longer ensures a perfect covering effect. About the latter, there is really spoiled for choice. They dominate i moisturizing foundation with an enveloping texturewhich melts into the skin and enhances its luminosity with an ultrafine film.
During the day it is preferable to choose a “nude” effect foundation, light and almost transparent, in the evening something more creamy and smoothing with a shine effect (in case of dry and opaque skin), matte or semi-matte in case of oily skin that has the need to minimize pores. The important thing is to never give up on the silky finish of a veil of impalpable, ultra-light loose powder composed of extremely luminous mineral pigments: it makes the skin compact and even, fixes make-up and masks imperfections. Ultim notes the blush, the great protagonist of the cold season. Enough with the nude look and the healthy glow effect of recent years: blush means color, cheekbones sculpted with a 3D effect that is very reminiscent of the 80s and 90s, when you weren’t afraid to dare. To enhance the geometry of the face, it should be applied to C, in an angular way, so as to include the cheekbones, temples and upper eyelid. Preference should be given to bold tones of brick, burnt orange, intense pink and full fuchsia. To enhance the features with strokes of blush, without fear of looking vulgar.

And we come to the lipsticks. The trendiest ones?

Also on this front, the new trend is to design, enhance, shine. Lipsticks with an opaque and velvety texture have given way to glossed colours, which make the lips soft, sensual and luminous. The whole range of reds is dusted off, difficult to wear but perfect for blondes and brunettes: from carmine red, bright and lively, to burgundy and the timeless cold fuchsia, with orchid reflections. The new trend is to use two different lipsticks to break up the single color and increase the volume of the lips. An example? A burgundy lipstick is applied all over the lips, and a carmine is applied in the centre, above and below, to increase its projection, firmness and create an appreciated repulp effect. Then, a transparent and, why not, glittery gloss is applied to this central area to shine with its own light on gray winter evenings. Furthermore, branded lipsticks combine color and treatment: beautiful lips mean having them always hydrated and nourished by vitamins, collagen microspheres and hyaluronic acid, even with padina pavonica extract (a mineral-rich seaweed) that many brands have adopted for its abundance in minerals. Without forgetting the key role of the pencil which redraws the contours in a decisive way and which, as with the lipstick, wants to get noticed this year.