from Beatrice Serra
The lifestyle assures us a healthy and radiant complexion. It’s a beauty routine correct is a fundamental hinge to free yourself from pimples and blackheadsadds the dermatologist Ines Mordente. “Out of 100 diagnoses I make in the studies in Naples, Rome and Milan, 70 concern acne,” he tells us. No.and his book #AcneRevolution, just released for Sperling & Kupfer, introduces an important passage: this problem is not solved only in medical offices but also with specific skincare habits. The same ones that, if practiced regularly, avoid turning oily skin into acne.
Doctor Mordente, you argue that awareness is the first weapon to combat impurities …
Of course. Knowing our skin type allows you to make the right choices in terms of creams & Co. and make-up, so it stems if it does not prevent problems. A case in point is adolescence, the moment when one enters the world of beauty: at thirteen, fourteen, girls who have the first signs of combination or oily skin – oily, with enlarged pores, not very elastic when moving mouth – they should immediately stop using cleansing milk, moisturizers, heavy sunscreen, oils of various kinds, all of which tend to cause even more sebum to be produced. While it is wrong to tell our daughters not to wear makeup: they can wear foundation, face powder, blush but all strictly oil free, with a mat control effect.
To prevent teenage messes from showing on their faces, what to do?
Take them to the dermatologist. Only the specialist can make a correct diagnosis, identify any critical issues and prescribe the right cosmetics. Do it yourself if there is an acne tendency does not work, and the sooner you intervene the better. Also because the therapy (and prevention) is made up of various aids, of treatments at home as at the doctor, of drugs in the most rebellious cases.
Broadly speaking, what does the skin routine entail?
The advice of the dermatologist is essential, but it is even more so to put into practice a precise usage pattern. So, morning and evening micellar water to remove dirt; then, an astringent non-alcoholic tonic is passed all over the face (no alcoholic ones that inflame even more) and wait two to three minutes so that the product has carried out its action of narrowing the pores; finally, the face is washed with a sebum-regulating cleanser (be careful not to pass it around the eyes or lips), for example based on aloe vera, mandelic acid and ginger extract, to eliminate the residues of previous cleaning. To rinse it, it is best to use cold water and dry with a cotton towel, the best are honeycomb and white in color. As a final, we proceed with the actual treatment, which changes according to the seasons.
Now, what products do you suggest?
We are entering the summer, so it is perfectly fine to massage a face first vitamin C serum o multivitamin, which strengthens the skin microbiome and makes the skin less susceptible to the inflammatory action of the sun; then, a sebum regulating cream, for example based on nicotinamide or 18-beta-glycyrrhetic acid. It should be put (in the amount of a lentil) on the cheeks and forehead, the areas most affected by acne, while the eye contour requires a specific product. There is (always) a few sprays of thermal water which, rich in mineral salts, helps to maintain the balance and natural hydration of the epidermis. From May onwards, you end up with sunscreen, better in a spray with a light consistency (to be renewed every two hours, if you are in the sun): it has a dry touch that less clogs the pores.
And what do we do in the evening?
The same cleansing in the morning e eye contour cream. For the rest, in the summer I would divide the week like this, alternating the products: three evenings, the usual sebum regulating cream; twice a week, we do a scrub that has an exfoliating action and a mask (based on kaolin and clay, with panthenol, a soothing active) that attracts excess sebum and keeps skin clarity under control; the other two evenings we use a light soothing moisturizer (based on aloe vera, excellent), to balance the dryness-irritation effect that pimple creams can give.
If the skin turns red and flakes, what should I do?
Thermal water at will, it is an elixir against dryness. If that’s not enough, you need to wash your face only with water and stop regulating sebum for three to four days. Light moisturizers take their place. When the epidermis has recovered elasticity, we start again as usual.
Is cosmetic against pimples enough?
Acne is not healed only with the beauty routine but the same is true if you only resort to treatments from the dermatologist or drugs. A true cure involves both home therapies and peels in doctors’ offices. Those that give the best results are multiacids (glycolic, mandelic and salicylic): in liquid and mixed form, they increase their purifying power three times, which oxygenates the skin, closes dilated pores, improves texture. These cocktails (it is always good to book a facial cleansing in the institute a few days before) must be made exclusively by the aesthetic doctor every three to four months and are suspended from May onwards as they are photosensitizers. The only peeling allowed is based on acetylsalicylic acid, neutral with respect to the sun.
What if after the treatments the skin is still marked?
To fill the holes on the face, in the same session, he is followed by peeling a multivitamin biostimulation with low molecular weight hiarulonic acid, so that the skin, dried by the peeling, is stimulated to repair itself. Another, stronger solution is needling: passing the roller with the needles on the skin, this reacts by creating new cells that tend to plug the holes. Then, there are ablative lasers: they remove scars and blemishes, but to do them the patient must be perfectly healed because the laser is an acne inducer.
But is acne healed?
Yes, and on average it takes six months to a year. It depends on the type of acne and each person’s therapeutic response. Taking into account that acne can be healed but not oily skin. This must be monitored with regular checks and a fair skincare for life.
If used day and night, this booster with active extracted from milk thistle seeds reduces blackheads and enlarged pores. Cleanance Comedomed from Avène (€ 21, avene.it).
To thoroughly purify oily skin without drying it: the gel detergent Mashed potato from Becos which, in contact with water, turns into a light oil (€ 26, becos.it).
To be reserved only in the evening, the treatment Primak Med Gel Treatment, which acts on the imbalance of the skin microbiota responsible for acne. (€ 26, giulianipharma.com).
Sage, green clay and vinolevure are the degreasing and fortifying ingredients of Vinopure Masque Purifiant from Caudalie (€ 22.90, caudalie.com).
It is a mix of a complex of acids (salicylic and glycolic) and probiotics, useful to exfoliate and even out the skin texture. Normaderm Probio-Bha Serum from Vichy (€ 33.49, vichy.it).
The new tonic based on salicylic, mandelic and niacinamide acids has a sebum normalizing action. Acnestil Micropeeling from Rilastil (€ 24.90, rilastil.com).
The moisturizing day cream that leaves the skin soft but mattified: My Clarins Re-Boostwith fruit and plants (€ 25, clarins.it).