Everyone dreams of having clear skin. However, it happens that during certain periods of life or due to hormonal upheavals, blackheads appear. These turn out to be more or less deep. So how to remove an encrusted blackhead? An update with Dr Caroline Pouget, dermatologist and founder of the clinic specializing in dermato-aesthetics Renécia.
Blackheads can be present on the face, mainly on the T zone (forehead – nose – chin), but also on other parts of the body, such as the back. Blackheads appear when excess sebum blocks the pore. The debris accumulates and then forms a plug which oxidizes over time and on contact with air. It turns black, especially in the absence of suitable cleaning products.
Blackhead and encrusted blackhead: what are the differences?
According to Dr Caroline Pouget, there are two types of blackheads:
- The open blackhead : it is rarely inflamed and is easily removed with a scrub.
- The closed blackhead : deeper and harder. This type of blackhead can turn into a microcyst. More difficult to dislodge, it requires an incision with a small needle to be extracted. “A delicate manipulation which must be entrusted to a dermatologist, because it can cause heavy scarring if carried out incorrectly.warns the dermatologist.
Good to know: these two types of blackheads can be present on the skin. And contrary to popular belief, their appearance is not reserved for the period of puberty. “We can be confronted with it at any time of life, especially when we experience hormonal changes.”, underlines the expert. “However, periods of adolescence or perimenopause are more prone to the appearance of blackheads.she adds.
Dr Caroline Pouget also cautions against the use of unsuitable products, which will promote local overproduction of sebum, and consequently the appearance of blackheads.
What solutions to remove encrusted blackheads at home?
The active ingredients to favor for an anti-encrusted blackhead routine
At home, you can create your own anti-blackhead routine by choosing suitable treatments. To wash your skin, the specialist recommends using a gentle cleansing gel based on salicylic acid or glycolic acid. “This type of product allows you to cleanse the epidermis in depth, without damaging it.explains the dermatologist.
Once the skin is clean, Dr Caroline Pouget recommends perfecting your routine with a toner containing salicylic acid or fruit acids. These are known to eliminate dead cells and promote cell renewal. “Fruit acids will have a local exfoliating action and can be used every day on oily skin.specifies the expert.
Finally, to hydrate the epidermis, the specialist recommends applying a cream based on niacinamide, fruit acids and/or retinol. Anti-inflammatory, the latter helps eliminate bacteria, regulate sebum production and refine skin texture.
Scrub at home: a bad idea for removing blackheads?
What about the scrub then? Although exfoliation allows cell renewal, it can still be harmful to the skin. This is particularly the case if we use scrubs that are too abrasive or at high frequency. “Exfoliating at home can make the problem worse by further dilating the pores.”, warns the dermatologist. “If there is not a parallel treatment to close them, they can oxidize again. she adds.
Removing an encrusted blackhead with a clay mask
Instead of potentially attacking the epidermis with a scrub, Dr Caroline Pouget recommends the use of clay masks. “They dry out enlarged pores and prevent them from filling up too quickly with sebum.explains the dermatologist.
Indeed, whether green, pink or white, clay has multiple virtues. It is known for absorbing lipids and retaining impurities and toxins on its surface. Another advantage: it helps the skin to heal. Combination or oily acne-prone skin turns more to green clay for its purifying qualities, while sensitive skin favors white or pink clay for its soothing benefits.
What treatments for blackheads at the dermatologist?
At the office, the dermatologist can offer you several options for cleaning the skin. “The HydrafacialⓇ treatment technique works very well on extracting blackheads”, recommends the dermatologist. This treatment with unique technology allows impurities to be sucked out firstly, then active serums based on antioxidants are injected secondly. The skin is deeply hydrated, smoothed and radiant. In terms of frequency, it is a treatment that can be done at each change of season.
The other possible treatment in dermatology to eliminate an encrusted blackhead is peeling. “It usually contains lactic acid and salicylic acid. Very effective active ingredients on oily and acne-prone skin., specifies Dr Caroline Pouget. This dermatological procedure, the aim of which is to exfoliate the epidermis, helps to have clear skin for at least a month. “This effect can last longer, if the patient adopts a good care routine at home.underlines the specialist.
Is skin cleansing at the beautician effective?
Opting for a deep cleaning from a professional is always a plus. And therefore going to a beauty salon provides additional help. In this regard, Dr Caroline Pouget would like to point out that a treatment in an aesthetic center can be quite sufficient for the extraction of encrusted blackheads. “However, If the person does not obtain satisfactory results in the institute, they can go to their dermatologist for more complex treatment.”recommends the expert.
How to prevent the arrival of an encrusted blackhead?
The care routine put in place to eliminate blackheads also serves to limit recurrences. During the day, we rely on mattifying and/or oxygenating creams, then in the evening, it’s time for treatments based on fruit acids. Glycolic acid-based serums are also very effective, as they help reduce irregularities on the skin’s surface. “ Serums with glycolic acid can now be found in all brands. There is something for all budgets », Explains the dermatologist. “Glycolic acid serum is good maintenance for skin prone to encrusted blackheads.she adds.
Actions to avoid when you have encrusted blackheads
Acne pimples like encrusted blackheads should neither be punctured nor fiddled with. This gesture, sometimes very tempting, can create inflammation. “The black dot then turns into a red button., warns the specialist. In the same way, you don’t learn to use a blackhead remover or a steam bath alone at home. “It is better that these practices are supervised by a professional, so as not to cause scars.” recommends the dermatologist.
As for the patches, which are found everywhere in supermarkets, they should be used occasionally and not regularly. This device can, in fact, be irritating to the skin. “Additionally, the patches have an illusory effect. They do not clean in depth and do not replace a basic treatment.concludes the expert.
