Skin barrier, dark spots, regeneration: beauty dictionary of 2024

Skin barrier, dark spots, regeneration: beauty dictionary of 2024

In 2023, searches for the ingredient ectoine (an amino acid that can attract water molecules and create a protective layer) increased by 163%, and the term skin streaming (simplifying the skin care routine into three to four products) increased by 138%. Experts predict that 2024 will be the year when the beauty world becomes obsessed with longevity, biotechnology and the fight against hyperpigmentation.

Skin barrier and ceramides

To restore the skin barrier, the product formulas are supplemented with ceramides (another buzzword with more than 703 million views on TikTok). “Ceramides play an important role in retaining moisture in the skin,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. “Ceramide products are a great addition to any winter skincare routine as they restore the skin barrier while providing essential hydration and maintaining skin elasticity.”

Dark spots

Pigmentation (and how to get rid of it) remains one of the most common skin care concerns. But the good news is that it has become easier to deal with. When choosing products such as serum, exfoliating mask and day cream, it is important to pay attention not only to UV protection, but also to the presence of niacinamide in the formula. Experts choose this component for its ability to well even out skin tone. Aminosulfonic acid will also not be superfluous. This is a lesser-known ingredient that also promotes healthy skin renewal and the reduction of dark spots.

Beauty routine

It’s easier to start forming new habits at the beginning of the year. For example, you can start wearing an LED mask. It will help solve problems such as dull skin color, age spots and hyperpigmentation, irritation and swelling.


The skin in the neck area is thinner and more delicate, which means that the aging process is noticeable here faster. “When it comes to neck care, look for products that contain ingredients that stimulate collagen production as well as hydrate,” says facialist Kate Kerr. “Massage will also help the area, such as lymphatic drainage to remove toxins and reduce swelling.”

You can ask your cosmetologist about non-invasive procedures – for example, those based on radio frequencies, which deliver thermal energy to all layers of the skin and thereby stimulate collagen production. Ultrasound procedures and injections with polynucleotides, which will tighten and strengthen the so-called rings of Venus on the neck, will not be superfluous.

Photo: freepik


In 2024, the obsession with wellness will permeate every area of ​​life, including skin care. But in order not to get lost in the flow of new products and technologies, experts advise attending specialized events. For example, in March in Moscow there will be an exhibition of natural cosmetics Eco Beauty Expo, and in April – the largest European exhibition Intercharm Professional, where domestic and foreign experts will present their developments in the field of professional cosmetics and cosmetology, hairdressing, makeup and much more.


According to the forecast of Dr. Derrick Phillips, in 2024 the beauty industry will talk more often about polynucleotides, which are used for biostimulating injections and are part of skin rejuvenation products. Polynucleotides are compounds primarily derived from salmon DNA, known for their ability to induce skin bioregeneration while reducing inflammation. They stimulate fibroblasts, promoting tissue repair, improving cellular turnover, increasing elasticity and stimulating collagen production.

Until recently, polynucleotides were mainly used in medicine, but recently they are gaining popularity in the aesthetic field. “Every consumer is becoming increasingly aware of professional treatments such as polynucleotides and exosomes (microscopic vesicles containing proteins, lipids and amino acids involved in many biological processes) that stimulate the skin, promote healing and the production of collagen, elastin and other key components that disappear due to skin aging, sun exposure and menopause,” says Dr. Phillips.


Polynucleotides and exosomes are just two examples of biocomponents that will be used in skin care products. “In the beauty industry, the convergence of longevity science and anti-aging techniques is creating a new era of products,” explains Eugene He, longevity research expert and founder of Invity. “New anti-aging creams and serums will contain advanced compounds that target biochemical pathways and processes. For example, NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, supports the functioning of all internal organs), NMN (nicotinamide mononucleotide, eliminates spots and wrinkles at the cellular level), AMPK (an enzyme that activates and renews cells) and “sirtuins” (proteins responsible for healing during illness and for wound healing) – these words will become mainstream in 2024.”