Bakuchiol, Matrixyl and Argireline in GENOSYS products
Bakuchiol is a gentler, more natural alternative to retinol. “This herbal ingredient is obtained from the seeds and leaves of the plant Psoralea colifolia, which is also called bakuchi or babchi, hence the name of the ingredient,” comments Irina Churikova, GENOSYS trainer and head of the training department of the aesthetic direction of the National Beauty Company. “Psoralea has a long history of use in Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, as well as Tamil Siddha practices, to aid healing, soothe and soften the skin due to the plant’s anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.”
Several studies over the past few years have shown that bakuchiol offers the same benefits as retinol without the irritation that can sometimes occur with retinol. “Another 2019 study found no difference between retinol and bakuchiol in filling wrinkles and treating hyperpigmentation, but those who used retinol did report more dryness and tingling skin,” says Churikova.
The South Korean brand GENOSYS produces several products based on bakuchiol, such as multifunctional anti-wrinkle serum and cream. They reduce and smooth out wrinkles, strengthen the skin, increase its elasticity, and also trigger collagen synthesis and protect against oxidative stress. The composition of the products, in addition to bakuchiol, includes ceramides NP, adenosine, phytosphingosine and various extracts.
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins and other various types of organic molecules. A chain of 50 or fewer amino acids is called a peptide, and if the compound is more than 50, then it is already a protein (protein). Some peptides are produced naturally by the body, while others are created artificially to mimic the function of natural ones. They penetrate deep into the skin and stimulate processes. “The most well-known peptides are Matrixyl and Argireline, which reduce the appearance of wrinkles,” explains the GENOSYS trainer. “There are also peptides that moisturize, even out skin tone and maintain its protective barrier.”
Peptide complex in Luscious Lips products
Luscious Lips is formulated with a proprietary complex of peptides and tripeptides, dehydrated marine collagen, hyaluronic acid and organic oils and antioxidants. The product is aimed at solving five problems:
- instant increase in lip volume without injections and irritation;
- intensive hydration;
- anti-aging effect;
- restoration of hydrobalance;
- moisture retention.
“This global bestseller contains a patented complex of peptides developed by American scientists,” says Olga Danshina, cosmetologist-esthetician, trainer of the National Beauty Company, moderator of cadaver courses for cosmetologists. — Penetrating into the skin, it promotes intensive production of collagen and elastin molecules. In this way, it can fill in fine lines around the lips, boost collagen levels, instantly defining contour and adding volume.”
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate and ADA in WiQo products
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is an innovative retinoid that is more effective than retinol, but is similar in effect to retinoic acid (the most active form of retinoids). It does not irritate the skin like retinol and retinoic acid. It is used in the fight against acne, post-acne and wrinkles. “This is a derivative of retinoic acid that acts directly on the retinoid receptors of cells without additional transformations,” says Marina Gorokhova, WiQo trainer, cosmetologist, dermatologist, neurologist, international certified specialist in aesthetic therapeutic cosmetology (ITEC). “This retinoic acid ester is stable in cosmetic products.”
Retinoate is part of the new Restructuring Vitamin Cream from the Italian brand WiQo. The product was developed for the treatment of age-related changes. The formula has been supplemented with a new form of stable vitamin C in an anhydrous emulsion. As a result, with regular use of the product, wrinkles and pigmentation will visually become smaller, skin turgor will improve, it will become tightened and radiant.
Another innovative ingredient is azelamidopropyl dimethyl amine (ADA), which is a water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid. “It enhances its effects, fights acne, reduces inflammation, prevents new breakouts, soothes, relieves puffiness, reduces sensitivity and brightens,” notes the WiQo trainer. This component is included in the balancing sebum regulator cream. Salicylic acid was also included in the formula, but its irritating effect was reduced and its effectiveness increased by 50%.
Not without active biofermentation ingredients, such as probiotics, skin microflora regulators and ingredients that increase protective properties. Bifidobacteria lysate, fermented folic acid and fermented camellia oil normalize the skin microbiome, increase its immunity, strengthen the epidermal barrier, reduce transepidermal moisture loss, maintain homeostasis, stimulate cell growth and neutralize the harmful effects of UV radiation.
“The trend of recent years – increasing the content of antioxidants in skincare products – is also reflected in the new balancing cream,” adds Marina Gorokhova. “It contains niacinamide and vitamin E, as well as fermented camellia oil, which exhibits antioxidant properties.”
