Protein and hydration: an expert explains how to choose hair care

Protein and hydration: an expert explains how to choose hair care

Bleaching, straightening, frequent washing, rough combing – any of these actions threaten the health of the hair. In addition, aggressive environmental factors can cause damage to your hair. And although a traditional hair mask is still an excellent solution, it is worth enhancing the restorative effect and thinking about protein treatment.

Hair needs moisture and protein to look its best. While old hair masks focused primarily on the former, today there are products that do the latter, strengthening and repairing stressed strands.

Protein or hydration

What care is worth investing in? Most likely, both methods will be useful. Because hair needs both moisture and proteins to maintain strength. It is best to alternate the two products.

Helen Reavey, trichologist and founder of Act + Acre, explained in a comment to Harpers Bazaar: “The key difference between protein and moisturizing hair products is that they are created for different needs. Hydrating products are designed to hydrate and restore moisture within the hair, which ultimately improves elasticity and reduces the likelihood of breakage. And protein-based products strengthen hair by adding protein to it, creating a protective barrier around the hair.”

While most powerful protein treatments are best done in a salon, there are plenty of supportive formulas on the market now for at-home use.

Lana Del Rey

How to identify the problem

For people with dry and damaged hair, it is sometimes difficult to determine what they need – protein treatment or a moisturizing mask. Reavie explains: “As a general rule, if you suffer from dryness, frizz, or general inelasticity, you should opt for a moisturizer.”

As for protein treatments, they should be used for increased fragility and split ends. “Protein treatments strengthen and repair hair, reducing the likelihood of further damage and split ends,” adds Helen Reavey. Additionally, if your hair is exposed to extreme heat, protein treatments work great to combat that damage.

An easy way to determine what your hair needs is to lightly tug on one strand. If it “snaps” without stretching, it needs moisture. If it stretches too easily and resembles chewing gum, protein will help.

“I wouldn’t use too many protein products to avoid protein overload, as this can cause further damage to your hair,” warns the trichologist. Since at-home protein treatments tend to be less effective than salon treatments, most people benefit from doing them once every two weeks and adding hydrating masks the other weeks.

Zendaya
Zendaya

How moisturizers and protein products work

The mask contains emollient ingredients that provide hydration and smooth the surface of each strand, making it instantly softer. Proteins work differently. Hair is made up of chains of amino acids – the building blocks of protein. When hair is exposed to heat or chemicals, these amino acid bonds can break down. Protein care fills gaps in amino acid chains, helping hair maintain strength and not fray.