Quilted lips are no longer in fashion. And not even other “exaggerated” touches that marked the siliconized beauty of the beginning of the new millennium: three-dimensional cheekbones worthy of a rodent, eyes pulled to the sides, raised eyebrows, skin without the shadow of a wrinkle, with the expression mummified by overdose of Botox. The new diktat that comes from Brazil, the recognized homeland of aesthetic medicineis an interesting turnaround in the name of nature, of that authentic beauty and never over the top which respects the anatomy of the face and refuses to stop time with restorations that distort the features.
A new trend, in contrast with the many faces made and redone on the big screen, which is also embraced by some manufacturers of equipment, products and medical devices for the use and consumption of those who work in the effervescent world of aesthetic medicine. This is the case, for example, of Merz Aesthetics which promotes a sort of vademecum for a gentle retouchinga direct invitation to white coats not to overdo it to satisfy customer requests at all costs.
But what are the soft touches recommended in different age groups?
- 20-30 YEARS
Microfiller on lips and nose
Kissed by youth, many girls are still dissatisfied with their appearance and therefore insecure in interpersonal relationships. The aesthetic doctor then asks Angelina Jolie for lips and, sometimes, even the increase in cheekbones. «Ok for one lip filler if they are very subtle and poorly delineated, but niente volumetric increase of the cheekbones»Explains the doctor Eliana Lanzi, plastic and aesthetic surgeon in Catania. “To emphasize the mouth, the focus of seduction, there are two types of fillers: one designed to make the lips plump, the other to redesign the Cupid’s bow and the contour that, at times, is made less clear by herpes relapsing lip “.
Or, if a girl has a teardrop nose, with the hump or the tip crushed by “new potato” you can focus on rhinofiller: if performed in a workmanlike manner, the hyaluronic acid infiltrations can hide the hump of the back, reshape and give more impetus to the tip, while the teardrop shape is corrected with micro-doses of botulinum toxin that block those muscles that make “hang” the tip of the nose. «Also in vogue among young people is the fox eye (fox look), that is an elongated, vaguely oriental eye effect, which is obtained by raising the tail of the eyebrow with traction threads in PDO or in polylactic acid », continues Dr. Lanza. “Is fine? It depends on the face, the cut and size of the eyes and their harmonious relationship with the other areas of the face. It is up to the doctor to have the last word, in order to avoid unnatural results ».
- 40 YEARS
Goodbye crow’s feet
Even if you devote maniacal care to your beauty routine and avoid the sun like the plague, they fan out on the sides of the eyes, mercilessly revealing age. They are the periocular wrinkles, commonly known as “crow’s feet”. Whoever then winks a lot, and wrinkles Rodin’s thinker-style muscles, also begins to show horizontal wrinkles on the forehead or glabellar lines between the eyebrows. «To smooth out the signs of expression without invasive interventions the only solution is the botulinum toxin», Says Dr. Lanza. “She extends her crow’s feet, opens her eyes and removes that frown from unresolved dilemmas.” 40 years is also the time to prevent chronoaging, by planning some biorevitalization sessions.
“Even in aesthetic medicine, prevention is better than cure,” adds the expert. «For this I recommend a biorevitalization cycle with calcium hydroxyapatite (component of bones and teeth) associated with carboxymethylcellulose. The vial containing the two active ingredients must be diluted in physiological solution and used for many micro-injections on the skin of the face, so as to stimulate the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin by the fibroblasts of the dermis ».
Finally, in lean over 40s who have deep dark circles, it may be indicated to fill the tear groove, always with a calcium hydroxyapatite filler which is safe and biocompatible. Other tweaks? Volumizing fillers of any kind are not recommended: it is still early.
- 50 YEARS
Away with the nasolabial wrinkles
In addition to crow’s feet, more and more pronounced, there is the need to correct the nasolabial wrinkles, those furrows that descend from the sides of the nose towards the mouth. “We do not think, however, that it is enough to fill them with a filler to obtain the anti-gravity effect, of rising the face upwards”, warns doctor Eliana Lanza. «My advice is to restore some volume to the cheekbones and to the malar area located between the lower eyelids and the cheeks. At 50, it is natural for her to appear a little drained and dropped. Correcting the volumes with ad hoc punctures, always with a filler based on calcium hydroxyapatite (pure or just diluted), a lifting effect is immediately obtained, of repositioning the tissues upwards. Then, we can move on to the nose-geniuses ».
To fill the latter, thehyaluronic acid with high molecular weight and crosslinkage (ie with a close bond between the molecules that compose it): it must be injected at the level of the middle dermis, to obtain more lasting and, above all, natural results.
- 60 YEARS
Class retouching is required, without too many “expanding” volumes (lips, cheekbones, temples, chin) that border on the ridiculous. «Those looking for a non-surgical facelift, without a scalpel or needles, can bet on Ultherapy®the treatment indicated from the age of 50 but which finds the ideal target precisely in the over 60s », Dr. Pier Paolo Rovattiplastic and aesthetic surgeon in Verona and Milan.
«A handpiece emits a beam of microfocused ultrasound which, thanks to the thermal effect (the heat reaches 65 ° C in the deep tissues, but is perceived at 40 ° C), determines the contraction of the muscle bands and the fibrous septae. Consequently, the skin also stretches and tones (skin tightening), by virtue of the denaturation of the old collagen fibers triggered by heat and the synthesis of the new ones. Other treatments exploit the power of ultrasound, but only Ultherapy® allows you to visualize the field well by means of ultrasound, which is important both in the pre-treatment phase (the clinical evaluation to set the depth of action of the ultrasounds) and during execution. . Only if it is ultrasound-guided does it ensure that the delicate surrounding structures such as vessels and nerves are spared ”.
With one session, to be repeated every 12-18 months, Ultherapy lifts and regenerates the skin of the face, neck and décolleté. And the results were published by the prestigious American Society for Dermatologic Surgery.