Anti-aging cosmetics, what are the tests to evaluate their effectiveness


from Beatrice Serra

What are the anti-aging tests to evaluate the effectiveness of an anti-aging cosmetic? A great expert explains it to us: Monica Mazzoleni. Pharmacist, research and development manager of Aurora Biosearch, the company for years engaged in the study of epigenetic techniques, which has formulated “Stem Age”, a revolutionary line of anti-aging creams.


Doctor, how can the effectiveness of an anti-aging be measured?

There are three levels of testing. The first is that of self evaluation: the product in question is tested by a sample of women (for a period ranging from two weeks to about a month) who, at the end of the test, give their opinion on how effective the cosmetic has been in solving a given problem ( if the wrinkle has become shallower, for example). With this test, in general, there are quite high success rates.
The second level is the clinical test, i.e. a visual evaluation by the dermatologist who checks, on the basis of reference photographic scales, if the micro relief of the surface (i.e., the depth of the wrinkle), the compactness (checks the resistance to pinching, traction, to recovery after pinching), dryness, vascular homogeneity of pigmentation. At the clinical check-up, the percentages drop.
The third test that can be done is instrumentalan objective evaluation performed with equipment that measures, after application
three things about the product: the electrical conduction capacity of the epidermal cells (it serves to control the effects of the product on superficial and deep hydration); elasticity (the validity of the treatment on tone is evaluated); the profilometry of wrinkles, necessary to define the anti-wrinkle activity. This is the most important test, which gives the smallest effectiveness rates because when checking with a device the variations are usually less noticeable.

To be marketed, an antiage of which results does it need?

To be able to write on the label “anti-aging cream” just do the self-assessment. We have carried out all kinds of tests on our line of creams and the results have been extraordinary.
The formula based on peptides (small sequences of amino acids), contained in the Zebrafish White Caviar (Roe Extract) and also present in our body, has the power to physiologically stimulate vitality and cell renewal. Clinical and instrumental tests, performed at the Derming Institute of Skin Bioengineering, revealed a minus 40% skin aging index in just one month. As evidence that this line of products is able to improve all the parameters on which the youth of the skin depends, such as the extension of wrinkles, the homogeneity of pigmentation and firmness. A very high figure, of great importance.

Other exams to pass?

The important thing is that all creams are built not to cause problems, even for the most sensitive skin. Before the efficacy test, there is the “dermatologically tested” test which ensures a formula that is as compatible as possible with our skin. This also includes the test for heavy metals (nickel, chromium and cobalt).

The multitasking solution

The skin changes face (less spots, wrinkles, imperfections at a glance) even with Acid Infusion, the new renewing and bioactivating treatment by Dibi Milano. It is done in two distinct and complementary phases: one in the institute (3 sessions spaced at least 4 days apart, € 95 each) and the other at home with products from the same line. These, in fact, have in their formulas a combination of active ingredients responsible for cell turnover (pyruvic acid, allantoin) and reparative, nutritional and antioxidant (bisabolol, vitamin F, resveratrol, retinol, etc.). With this multifactorial spectrum of action, Acid Infusion is therefore suitable for all skin types and ages.

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