Of Beatrice Serra
The weather conditions change and so do the needs of the skin which, in winter 2023, stays “cool” even at home. For the gas emergency plan issued by the Government, in factthe standard heating of winter homes should be around 19°Cbelow those 22-23°C we had become accustomed to over the years.
«All in all, however, the skin thanks you», says the dermatologist and aesthetic doctor Ines Mordente, with offices in Milan, Rome and Naples. «With lower radiators, it gets dirty and “draws” less. Indeed, during this period the enemy to fight is dehydrationsince the skin is subject to a greater transepidermal loss (through the skin barrier) of water due to the cold external temperatures and due to a lower production of lipids. This is why it dries out quickly without being able to hydrate adequately. In addition, it has to deal with the thermal shocks typical of winter: going from a cold environment to one that still has a temperature several degrees higher, it easily becomes red and sensitive. And that blush in the cheeks is a cardinal sign of inflammation.”
All skin types need to be hydrated
The must of winter skincare is therefore increase the amount of hydration. «It applies to all skin types», points out the expert. «The dry, sensitive or mature skin wants it in double percentages compared to summer but also those who have oily skin and, perhaps they are taking a cure against acne, must foresee a light hydration. Often, however, the winter beauty case is filled with oils or butters, in the belief that with these fat-based cosmetics the skin receives maximum comfort», resumes Dr. Mordente.
«In reality these products remain on the surface, and goodbye hydration. Instead, we need cosmetics that, thanks to their active ingredients, are absorbed quickly and deeply».
To cleanse, choose milk or an oily emulsion
The active ingredients of winter in beauty are few, but essential to strengthen the skin barrier and protect it from the aggression of atmospheric agents. «The important thing is to spread them on the whole daily beauty routine», continues the dermatologist, starting with cleansing.
«A valid winter cleanser, morning and evening, for dry, sensitive or mature skin is always milk which, with its velvety texture, has an emollient action on the skin. For those who prefer contact with water, an oil-based emulsion is also fine, which allows you to restore the lipid film. While I would reserve micellar water only for oily or acne-prone skin. Afterwards, you need a toner, and a few sprays of cellular or thermal water provide an excellent moisturizing power, the latter also being rich in mineral salts».
Look for formulas with hyaluronic acid and ceramides
«When it comes to actual skincare, the most effective winter face creams contain hyaluronic acid, ceramides and vitamin E: all active ingredients that penetrate well into the intercellular spaces and “strengthen” the skin, forming a protective layer that helps prevent the loss of hydration, as well as the damage caused by environmental stress factors», says Dr. Mordente.
«For young women, a day soin (cream or emulsion) is sufficient but from 40 years of age it is necessary to associate it with a serum with the same active ingredients. In the evening, facial care becomes more full-bodied, nourishing and restorative: the ideal night cream is also enriched with glycerol (improves skin elasticity), panthenol (promotes the formation of new cells and reduces redness), niacinamide (strengthens the skin barrier and reduces water loss, as well as have an anti-stain action) and vitamins C and E, natural antioxidants. Finally, pay attention to the delicate areas. The winter cold “beats hard” on the eye contour, which can only be defended if a lot of hyaluronic acid is applied. Same care for the lips: their bulwark is a nourishing balm based on ceramides.
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